On the third day of our journey, we left Porto and headed south. A morning train ride, a stop in Coimbra, and our arrival in Nazaré divided the day into three chapters, each with its own rhythm. From the buzz of the city to the waves of the ocean.
Departure – goodbye Porto
Today a shift to the south was waiting for us, so we got up early to pack. In nine days we would be sleeping in three different locations, so we decided to travel with backpacks. Carrying everything on our backs is definitely more practical and far easier than dragging suitcases around. Especially when you realise that Portuguese cities are anything but flat.
The metro stop close to our accommodation saved us from a wet start to the day, since it was still raining. At Campanhã railway station we caught our train. I had bought the tickets about a month earlier, since they are more than half cheaper and also allow you to reserve seats. Good thing too, because I hadn’t seen so many people on a platform on a Saturday morning in a long time.
moving on
everything we have, we carry with us
The Train Ride
As you leave Porto by train, the outskirts slowly give way to a wide plain, where the tracks almost touch the Atlantic for a moment. Eucalyptus plantations dominate the landscape, dotted with patches of pine forest. On the higher ground you can even spot a vineyard or two.
After about half an hour on the train, the landscape turns into a network of lagoons, canals and marshes. Because of all these waterways, Aveiro is often called the Portuguese Venice, except that there are no gondolas gliding through the canals — instead, there are larger, brightly painted boats called moliceiros, which were originally used to transport seaweed. We didn’t see much of them from the train window, though, because the rain was coming down in sheets.
Why a stop in Coimbra?
The train doesn’t stop anywhere near our final destination, so I planned a break in Coimbra, since we would have had to switch to a bus anyway. Why Coimbra? Well, here the little magician in me stepped in again. This is one of the oldest continuously operating universities in Europe, founded back in 1290. For a long time, as the country’s only university, it shaped the Portuguese elite.
The university complex stands on top of a hill — nothing in this part of Portugal is ever really “flat”. The symbolism is clear: knowledge is something you have to climb towards. As for us… we climbed it by taxi.
Hogwarts in the Making
Which brings us to the real reason we came to Coimbra: Harry Potter.
Students wear traditional black uniforms with flowing capes — the very look that inspired the wizarding robes in Harry Potter. J. K. Rowling herself confirmed it.
with wizards
A Library with Special Protection
There’s something truly unique here — the Biblioteca Joanina, an 18th-century baroque library built as a self-contained microclimatic space. Its walls are incredibly thick, its wood is a special type, and the windows let in very little light. All of it designed to protect the paper and book bindings from humidity. Photography is forbidden, so I’ll try to paint it with words instead.
After climbing steep steps with a 20-kilogram backpack, you enter a room that holds around 70,000 books, manuscripts and maps. The space is smaller than you’d imagine and rises high — eight to ten meters — just enough for three levels of beautifully carved shelves, accessible through hidden doors.
And then there’s the library’s own “night watch”: a permanent colony of bats, Miniopterus schreibersii, who feed on insects and have been acting as a natural protective system for centuries.
bat protection
It really is just like the saying goes: you arrive as a visitor, but you leave as someone who’s taken a piece of this place with you…
Towards the Atlantic
We took a taxi down the hill to catch the 1:30 p.m. bus that was supposed to take us all the way to the ocean. The hills soon give way to gentler terrain, olive groves start appearing, and here and there even a vineyard. The bus passes through Leiro, a place that at first glance doesn’t promise much. Just a town like any other — shops, apartment blocks, a small factory — and then, between the facades, you suddenly glimpse a hilltop with something on it. But you can’t quite make it out.
When the view finally opens up, you realise that you’ve been riding beneath a castle the whole time — and it looks truly impressive. I later read that the whole area used to be known for vast pine forests. It was from here that Portugal sourced the timber for its ships during the era of discoveries and conquests. Definitely worth a stop some other time!
The ocean isn’t far now. You step off the bus, grab a coffee and a sort-of chocolate pastry, load up your backpack again, and quickly check Google Maps to see where you’re supposed to go.
And here’s where we messed up. Or Google did. Or probably both. We ended up walking almost half the coast before we found the right path to our accommodation. But honestly, it wasn’t exactly suffering. Quite the opposite.
First came that unmistakable Portuguese wavy pavement we’d already walked on in Porto… as if it went on forever.
Then, on the right, a vast, wide beach, reminiscent of Copacabana – but empty, and because of that, even more beautiful. Truly. Pure suffering.”
waves on land
a beach that wins you over
Transit Home No. 2
This was honestly one of the nicest places I’ve booked through Booking in the past few years. I’m pretty sure the little balcony with its ocean view had something to do with it — the kind of spot where the photo basically takes itself.
the little balcony
Port Wine and a Walk into the Dark
Over dinner we tried some port wine — similar in aroma to blueberry liqueur, sweet in taste, but smoother to drink. Here they served it as an aperitif. As we’d already noticed in Porto, it’s quite a bit stronger and usually closer to 20%.
Of course we couldn’t resist ending the day with a walk along the beach. The only lights are by the road, while the beach itself is nearly 200 meters wide, so once you’re in the middle, you’re standing in complete darkness. And when you finally reach the end and hear the waves you can’t see, it becomes a little eerie — and somehow even more magical.
The City of Waves
Nazaré is famous for having the biggest waves in the world. Not on the side we were on, though — those are on the northern side.
If that’s really true, we’ll find out tomorrow.
The Last Morning in Lisbon and a Bit of Tactical Packing
Our flight wasn’t until the afternoon, so there was no need for early alarms or rushing around. The morning unfolded slowly, just the way we like it at the end of a long journey.
When it comes to packing, we always gain a bit of extra space by bringing along a few well-worn clothes and leaving them behind without regret. Fashion trends don’t really travel with us. Somehow, I still managed to squeeze all the little gifts for family, friends, and Nia’s and Nara’s classmates into our already overstuffed backpacks. Around here, it’s simply tradition that everyone gets a small souvenir.
A Special Category
Today, in the age of SMS, instant messages, and endless social media apps, it feels as if we’ve almost forgotten a ritual that once accompanied every journey: sending postcards.
Back home, in a house tucked away in the Primorska region at my father-in-law’s place, an entire wall is covered with postcards from our travels so far. From Helsinki and Rovaniemi to Ireland, Tenerife, Paris, Seville, Washington, New York, and now Portugal.
The second person to receive our postcards is our friend Lucas from Denver, Colorado. Igor met him more than fifteen years ago while traveling through South America, and they’ve stayed in touch ever since.
What we share is a deep love for travel, which is why finding a postcard in the mailbox is always a nostalgic journey in itself. Especially for someone like Lucas, who has already traveled the world.
He has visited Slovenia twice as well, most recently with his family. Maybe they’ll come again one day. Or perhaps it’s slowly becoming our turn to go there.
Considering that a postcard from Lisbon took over a month to reach Slovenia, it’s fair to expect that Lucas will receive his sometime next May…
Mysterious Rashes
Before leaving, we took one last look around every corner of the room. I paid especially close attention to Nia’s legs.
On Tuesday, after a 300-meter swim in the pool, rashes appeared on her thighs. We applied Bepanderm from our travel first-aid kit every day. For two days, things seemed to calm down nicely, but on the final evening, just in time for the holiday, it flared up again.
Of course, why would anything be simple when it can be just a little dramatic? There was no chance of contacting our chosen pediatrician, “Dr. House.”
In short, I found our savior in my contacts list. I sent photos to our friend Nika, a pharmacist, who reassured me that the rashes would most likely disappear just as suddenly as they had appeared.
I felt relieved… well, almost. If you’re a mom, you know exactly what it means to be almost relieved.
Heading to Lisbon Airport
We took the metro to the airport. This time, I felt so confident that even I, someone who needs a few seconds to tell left from right, would have found the way without any trouble. Miracles do happen.
Igor mentioned that he had seen several TikTok videos claiming Lisbon Airport was confusing and poorly organized. A taxi driver in Porto had warned us about the same thing. Because of that, we arrived a full three hours early.
As it turned out, all those warnings were completely overblown. An airport like any other, nothing particularly dramatic. Departures and arrivals were displayed everywhere, signage was clear, and it was easy to know where to go. For families, the security check was especially well organized, with a dedicated lane. Friendly staff, no issues at all. Perhaps the criticism applies more to non-EU flights.
Windy Was Showing Red
Then something else became problematic. Something beyond our control. Looking through the airport’s huge windows, we were met with powerful winds. In my mind, a familiar scenario was already forming, another turbulent flight.As if the wind wasn’t enough, heavy rain soon followed.
Igor’s Windy app showed a red storm cell right above us. Apparently, after sparing us in Porto, the weather had decided to act differently this time. Our incoming aircraft from Zurich was already delayed because of it, so our return flight didn’t stand much of a chance either.
Still, we made our way toward the departure gate…
Parlez-vous français ?
While we were waiting, a small mishap like this helped pass the time.
In the waiting area, we tried to communicate with a French woman who spoke only French. The only one of us who speaks even a little French is Igor, and of course, he was standing in line.
Somehow, through gestures and pantomime, we managed to understand what it was all about. The woman was asking us to watch her luggage while she urgently needed to use the restroom. How exactly she communicated that is best left to the imagination. Let’s just say she could have easily landed a leading role in a silent film.
No Turbulence and No Sandwich in Switzerland
We finally boarded with a one-hour delay, but it didn’t worry us. We still had several hours to wait in Zurich before our flight home, so in the end, the delay was actually welcome.
Throughout the flight, I kept waiting for announcements about turbulence, but none ever came. In Zurich, everything went smoothly, and this time we had our snacks with us.
We landed at Brnik around 11:30 p.m., at a time when most people are already asleep. Meanwhile, we were hurrying through the airport with that familiar look on our faces: “Well, now we’re really home…”
But one more stop was still waiting for us…
An After-Hours Medical Clinic Visit
Since I’m a bit of a “health worrier” when it comes to my children, we drove straight from the airport to the after-hours medical clinic.
Nia’s rashes had spread quite a bit by then. Red patches everywhere, alarming to look at, but without any itching or fever. Given the holiday weekend, our midnight stop felt like a sensible decision.
The on-call doctor couldn’t explain the cause, but said the rashes would most likely disappear on their own. Reassured, some of us more than others. Me a little less, Igor and the girls quite a bit more. Already thoroughly exhausted, we finally headed home.
All that was left was a shower, brushing our teeth, fresh pajamas, and our own bed.
As for me, there was still coffee and a glass of Cedevita. Yes, yes. The time of day doesn’t really matter to me. I end a journey the same way I begin it. Everyone has their own rituals.
All’s Well That Ends Well
And so our Portuguese journey came to an end. With a bit of delay, a touch of drama, wind, heavy rain, rashes, and airport pantomime. In short, completely our style.
If there isn’t at least one small adventure, then it simply isn’t us. We came home with a suitcase full of memories, even more photos, great stories, and special moments.
…in medtem ko se komaj vračamo v naš vsakdan, jaz že gledam naprej ter Igorju pošiljam print screene novih letov….
✍️ Written by Igor
Short Trip Summary
Do you need a car in Portugal?
We relied entirely on public transport, which is straightforward in both Porto and Lisbon. Connections between cities are well organized. I’d only recommend buying tickets in advance, partly for better prices, but mainly to secure seat reservations.
The two main providers are CP (Comboios de Portugal) for trains and Rede Expressos for buses.
Now, at the end of the trip, I can honestly say that we never felt the need for a car. Neither we nor the children. All our travel legs were under two hours, which made everything very manageable.
Porto
Porto is a wonderful city with a lot to offer. Thanks to the good location of our accommodation, we were able to see the main sights in a single day.
If Porto had been planned as a day trip from Lisbon, it would have been exhausting even for an adult, let alone for a child. Besides, I don’t think you really get a feel for a city that way. Personally, I liked it even more than Lisbon.
If the goal is simply to explore the city, get lost among the azulejos, and enjoy views of the river below, one day is enough. If you want to travel upriver, though, you’ll need an extra day or two. There is some uphill walking, but nothing too demanding. And even if you end up, like we did, on the lower level of the bridge, there’s always the funicular to take you back up.
I do have to say that the views were beautiful both down by the river and from the viewpoint above, each in its own way. Below, because of the bridge, where you can see the entire structure, and above, because of the view of the colorful house facades with red rooftops and the winding Douro River.
It makes sense to buy tickets in advance for Livraria Lello and the Clérigos light show, to avoid unnecessary waiting in line and to make sure you get a seat in the church.
Aveiro, Coimbra, and Leiria
Coimbra was our stop on the way to the Atlantic. Even before reaching it, the train passes through Aveiro, known as the Portuguese Venice. If it hadn’t been raining so heavily, we would have gladly stopped for a coffee by the canal.
The train stops at Coimbra-B station, which is outside the city, so a taxi is needed.
We first headed to the bus station, where we had a later departure, to store our backpacks. I had read on the university’s website that entry with large backpacks is not allowed. There were lockers available at the station, but using them required downloading an app.
The university is located at the top of a hill, so once again we took a taxi. No one made an issue about the backpacks, but carrying them up all those steps was a bit awkward. Suitcases would be out of the question.
One possible stop along the way would also have been the town of Leiria with its castle, but we were in a hurry to continue onward.
Nazaré
This is the place I would definitely recommend including in your Portugal itinerary. Whether it’s the vast beach, the waves, the view from the cliffs, or simply the fact that everything is within a single kilometer.
On the last day of every trip, we always have the same ritual at breakfast. Each of us shares what we liked most. This time, for the first time on all our travels, the answer was the same: the beach in Nazaré.
If I were planning the trip again, I would take one day away from Lisbon and add it here.
Obidos
This town as well, which Portuguese kings once gave to their brides as a wedding gift, would definitely be on my list for a future trip to Portugal as a stop of a few hours. The city walls looked absolutely fantastic from the road.
Lisbon
The city is well connected by metro, so it makes sense to plan your accommodation near one of the stations. In Lisbon, we used the Viva Viagem card, which you top up with credit for multiple rides, and it turned out to be the simplest option. Each person needs their own card, including children.
Everything can be explored on foot, except perhaps the route to the entrance of São Jorge Castle, where taking a bus from Rossio is a good idea to avoid getting tired too quickly. There was once again a queue at the entrance, so buying tickets in advance is recommended. The walk back down is pleasant, except when it rains and the cobblestones become slippery.
Cristo Rei, yes or no?
The trip across the river to Cristo Rei is straightforward. The ferry accepts the Viva Viagem card, so there are no complications, but getting there by bus is a different story.
The view is phenomenal. My only regret is that we didn’t go up to the upper platform. The main challenge is getting back to Lisbon. We wanted to cross the 25 de Abril Bridge, but that wasn’t possible.
So we returned the same way we came, which took up the entire morning. As a result, we skipped the Belém area, simply because we no longer had the energy.
Sintra
The journey from Lisbon to Sintra is just as straightforward. From Rossio railway station, you take a train paid for with the Viva Viagem card; I think it cost around 3 euros. The trip takes just under an hour. When we arrived in Sintra, we were immediately approached by fake taxi drivers.
There is also a bus that, for about 15 euros, takes you on a circular route past all the main sights. Looking back now, that would probably have been the most sensible option, as it would have saved us the long walk downhill.
For Pena Palace, it turned out to be a good decision to buy the first available entry online at 9:30. A bus or taxi takes you to the entrance of the palace park, and from there it’s about a 15-minute walk uphill. There is also a small shuttle bus, but tickets must be purchased at the entrance, which we didn’t do, so we walked instead.
Besides Pena Palace and the Moorish Castle, which requires a separate ticket, Sintra has much more to offer. For that, you really need a full day.
Cabo do Roca
For us, the end of Europe was more important. Finding the right bus at the station was quite chaotic, as the station stretches along a single long street. In the end, we found it right at the very end.
One hour is more than enough to take in the views along the cliffs. There is also a restaurant, but it was closed when we visited.
Cascais
Less than an hour’s drive brings you to this coastal town, which offers a relaxing break after a long day. From here, you return to Lisbon by train, once again paid for with the Viva Viagem card.
The End
After more than 130,000 steps and roughly 300 kilometers traveled, we can safely say that Portugal is an incredibly beautiful, interesting, and safe country to explore with children.
Next trip: Barcelona
We’re about to set off on a new journey, this time to the heart of Catalonia — Barcelona. We start on December 28. Along the way, we’ll be sharing daily moments on my Facebook profile (Igor Kravanja), while the full blog stories will follow after we return.
